Cigar maker rolls into past
by G.J Zemaltis
Next to being shot at and
missed, nothing is really
quite as satisfying as an
income tax refund. - F.J. Raymond
Or
a good cigar, Mark Twain might have added, whose portrait invariably
has the humorist of a simpler age delicately holding a panatela
like a wand leading a pupil's eye to the point.
Beside it being a symbol of power, the cigar Twain most probably
smoked was hand-rolled, it's end twisted like the bristly tail
of a wild boar.
The art of rolling cigars by hand is not dead...at least not yet,
said Fanning, owner of Oakbrook Tobacco Co. at the north end of
Oakbrook Center.
And in his 15-year-old store, Fanning keeps alive an anachronism
in an age when pseudo cigar-afficionados praise the likes of Jamaican
Macanudos...or worse, the legendary Cuban of Havana, a cigar,
Fanning said, that today bears no resemblance to the ones before
Batista.
Fanning gives no quarter to cigar makers who use machines to roll
the tobacco.
"The box says that it's a handmade cigar. What that means
is that a machine did the rolling and an old man put on the final
leaf as a wrapper," said Fanning.
He explained that modernization has allowed cigar makers to bypass
the tedious labor of the past century.
"Back when all cigars were rolled by hand, many cigar factories
employed a person to sit in the middle of the room and read aloud
books or newspapers to workers sitting on wooden horses rolling
one cigar after another."
Machines made cigar rolling quicker, explained Fanning, but also
signaled the end of an art he took up 17 years ago as an apprentice
to a man he fondly calls a giant.
Fanning's route to antiquity started 11 years after he earned
a doctorate in aeronautical engineering and sciences at Purdue
University in Indiana.
"I was working for a firm and offered a promotion that would
have required my staying an additional five years with the company,"
he said. Five years is his idea of repaying an employer in kind
for a promotion, he explained.
He refused the promotion, returned to Chicago and looked for a
way to build a business out of a hobby that started in college
when he blended tobacco for fraternity brothers.
"I looked through the Yellow Pages and found Meyer Patur,
a Russian-Jewish immigrant who came to Chicago in 1914 from Siberia,"
said Fanning.
"Meyer was short, had an atrophied leg from Polio and was
a man of few words," he recalled. Fanning served a two-year
apprenticeship, learning the art of cigar making, and, most important,
the meaning of personal service.
"Meyer was old when he started teaching me and had built
a loyal following over the years," said Fanning. The old
cigar maker's following read like a "Who's Who" of power
brokers, politicians and celebrities.
Once, said Fanning, "A woman came into the store to pick
up her husbands cigars and I had only rolled 50 of a 150-cigar
order.
The look in her eyes was electrifying when I told her that the
cigars were for another customer.
"She almost cried, telling me she could not go home without
the cigars," he said.
Fanning sold her the cigars, and said he learned a lesson about
personal service and loyalty.
A short time later, Fanning bought Patur's cigar business and
with it, the secrets of what he said is the best cigar in the
world.
"It's in the blend of tobaccos and the technique of manufacture,"
said Fanning, disclosing only that some of the tobacco comes from
Nicaragua, Brazil, Mexico and Connecticut.
The other six tobaccos necessary to produce his cigar are a secret,
as well as what is done to the leaf once it arrives at his store.
"The blend of tobaccos in my cigars goes back more than 160
years and was enjoyed by James Smithson, the English scientist
and founder of the Smithsonian Institute in Washington D.C.,"
he claimed.
So secret is Fanning's blend of tobacco, that customers are encouraged
to keep quiet about it source.
"Neither Meyer nor I encouraged our influential clients to
speak about our cigars. Too many people would want them for the
wrong reasons.
"They would want the cigar for who smokes it and not for
the cigar itself."
The tradition of secrecy remains to this day, with Fanning saying
only that he ships cigars to the capitals of many nations.
His skill at rolling cigars has become known by those smokers
unhappy with machine rolled cigars that smoke with bitterness
and are difficult to draw.
"Machines roll a cigar too tightly and are bitter because
of the leaf used," he said.
"My choice of tobacco and the way that it is used is so different
from all the others, that many experienced cigar smokers can't
decide whether to smoke it or eat it."
It appears that many smokers agree with Fanning, and their patronage
has Fanning waking at 2:30 a.m. each day to roll cigars, ending about
eight hours later or, as he said, "when the job is done".
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'I
don't know of any cigar rollers who died young, and Meyer rolled until
he was 93, smoking 5 cigars a day, and died when he was 97. I plan to
live a long time.'
The
process, he explained, starts with tobacco shipped to him in bales,
the leaves brittle and dry.
Different leaves are chosen for their qualities as either filler, binder
or wrapper.
Fanning explained that the larger the cigar, the milder it smokes,contrary
to people's beliefs. The
art of rolling cigars can be likened to the blending of spirits, both
requiring an educated nose and taste buds.
"I'm fortunate that Meyer and I shared the same taste in tobacco;
it worked to produce consistent cigars," he said, adding that he
can taste the difference in any one of ten tobaccos in a cigar. As
Fanning continued his explanation of cigar rolling, a stream of customers
entered his store looking for an appropriate Christmas gift.
"Most people buy a good cigar and refrigerated it, thinking they
are doing the proper thing to preserve it," said Fanning.
"Nothing could be worse for a cigar. The cigar leaf is the most
odiferous absorbing leaf in nature and will pick up all the scents in
a refrigerator."
His rolling technique is as old as the blend. The dry tobacco is moistened
with an atomizer and wrapped in water-soaked wool coats for three days
before it can be rolled.
The stems are removed with a technique so sleight-of- hand that a magician
would blush. Another step is required before rolling can begin, and
again, Fanning said it is a secret that makes his cigars unique.
"It's the marriage of filler tobacco's that gives a cigar much
of it's taste, the remainder coming from the wrapper, which is as fine
as silk and filled with flavor," he explained.
The color of the wrappers on Fanning's cigars appear no different from
commercial cigars sharing space in the humidor where the tobaccos are
kept moist.
"All commercial tobacco growers use pots of burning charcoal or
licorice to color the leaves. My tobacco gets it's color through another
means," said Fanning.
Once the tobacco reaches the right level of pliability, Fanning rolls
each cigar and places it in a press of coconut wood and applies pressure,
the end result: a perfectly rolled cigar.
One cigar stands out from the rest with its twisted end, a contrast
to the blunt cut of the others.
"I roll this cigar as a connection with the past, when a twisted
end was required because matches were not invented until 1834 and a
smoker had to use an ember to light his cigar."
The loyalty of Fanning's customers is not swayed by current reports
of illness associated with smoking, but he sees drops in his business
after a blitz of anti-smoking information like the recent Great American
Smokeout.
"The person looking for a cigar to give an uncle or father reacts
to anti-smoking information. It usually lasts for a week and people
are back in buying cigars and pipe tobacco," said Fanning.
"I don't believe that cigar smoking is bad for a person; I think
it's a great relaxer," said Fanning.
"And besides, there are no young people rolling cigars today. They
are all old men, well into their 60's."
The art of hand rolling cigars probably will vanish with the deaths
of the old masters, explained Fanning, who has taught the art to two
people.
"Some years ago, I took on two apprentices who worked at it for
awhile and gave it up because of the difficult labor involved and because
they discovered there was nothing glamorous in the work," Fanning
said.
He will not teach the craft to anyone but a family member and, as a
father of five children, hopes that one might want to learn cigar making.
The fragrance of moist tobacco hangs in the air of his store as he writes
the name of every cigar buyer on a card and files it away.
"I don't mention my hand rolled cigars to everyone who comes in.
If they are serious I will tell them about it and put them on my list,"
said Fanning.
The list was created because of the demand and now only sells to people
who have been referred to him.
During Christmas, he will make an exception and sell to anybody looking
for a cigar as a gift.
Fanning is a content man, firmly connected to the past and intends to
roll cigars until he drops.
"I don't know of any cigar rollers who died young, and Meyer rolled
until he was 93 smoking five cigars a day and died at when he was 97.
I plan to live a long time."
Fanning finally mentioned several names on his mailing list, one elderly
entertainer who has made a Fanning cigar his trademark as recognizable
as his line, "Say good night, Gracie."
He did not reveal the entire list, but a call to Congressman Henry Hyde's
office confirmed that he smokes Fanning cigars, enjoying them immensely.
"It really is the best cigar in the world," said the congressman.
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